Mentally, puppies are like a sponge in that they soak up everything, and if
they've been properly raised will approach almost anything without a
preconceived attitude. As they mature, some of this predisposition to "I
wonder what that is, it might be interesting" attitude wears off, and the
"you can't teach an old dog new tricks" concept leads most owners to treat
the dog in just that manner. To keep or develop the puppy-like interest in
life, we need to change the owner attitude about the dog's mental
development. Doing both can contribute to the enjoyment and productivity of
the companionship enjoyed by the dog, and the owner.

Some training approaches seek to erase the puppy traits for a number of
reasons. It seems that this is most commonly done because it overtly
demonstrates a human dominance over the dog, and/or from a different
semantic description, the dog is "well behaved". For pointing breeds I like
to train them while maintaining a lot of the puppy mentality. It is more
difficult to accomplish this with family pets because the owners don't
generally have a clear image of what their dog's job is, or what the dog
will become as it gets older. First time owners seem to be especially clue
less, and that's why they seek a quite (intimidated?), obedient
(submissive?), possession (dog?), that is only in their lives (little to no
daily effort?) when it's convenient to them (quality time?). First time
owners are especially clue less that the playful puppy can/will turn into a
grouch, and that an older grouch with ailments may become actively
antisocial. A puppy mentality is part of preventing this.

Admittedly, I'm a spoiled dog trainer. Primarily training pointing breeds
for hunting, I get less of the problems faced by other trainers. And
importantly, the owners generally understand what the dog's job is - or are
very likely to accept my definition of it. By asking, "Is there any reason
you wouldn't want a dog that's fun to be with at home as well as when you're
hunting?", I can get a positive lead into the following points about the
desirability for a state of puppy mentality.

1. Thinking every new thing I want to do will be interesting.
2. A happy personality.
3. Trusting of everyone and every other dog.
4. Never getting tired of looking for "something new".
5. Complete trust in me and every other human not to intentionally hurt it.
6. Know when it's time for business and when it's time for fun.

There are of course jobs that dogs have which make all or some of my above
desires unacceptable (e.g. guard dogs), and then my (rather utopian?)
approach may be inappropriate.
I guess that's why I love the hunting dog and pet work best.

I don't see rapid and correct obedience to commands of mannerly control
(here, sit, down, off, heel, etc.) to be in conflict with business/hunting
and training/maintaining for the 6 items above. I require proper deportment
in the appropriate settings. (Children may race around the house at home,
but know darn well not to do it when visiting.)
a. Correcting a dog that intentionally disobeys a trained command does not
bring resentment if the correction is appropriate in the dogs mind.
b. Demanding training and high standards are not punishment.

From the view point of a pointing dog trainer, here are some thoughts on how
to accomplish my six points of puppy mentality in work and play.

1. a. Make training required tasks interesting when possible. b. Find new
interesting things to do.
2. a. Read the dog during training and don't train a "down" dog. b. If you
aren't having fun when "playing" then the dog isn't either.
3. a. Give the dog things to do which require it to be trusting of you:
teeter board, high board walk, jump off a high place into water -- be
imaginative and look to every dog for what challenges it. b. Don't allow
aggressive behavior and don't be around dogs that are aggressive.
4. Find something that "looks interesting", and be interested while
encouraging the dog to do so. I take my personal dogs on walks around the
farm, and will sometimes stop at a mouse hole and encourage them to help me
"find it". Their tails get to moving at warp speed and we all dig and scuff
about trying to find it. THEY KNOW this is a "permissive" behavior and isn't
appropriate when business (hunting) is being conducted.
5. Don't hurt the dog and don't permit others to be hostile to it. I've got
acquaintances that are just not dog people, and I don't let them around my
dogs. Their manner of petting and other actions just scream to the dog "I
don't really like dogs and you are a pain in the @#$ . If I liked dogs I'd
have one and I don't!" Remember that dogs read even subtle body language
VERY well. If you want a people friendly dog, then people need to be
friendly to the dog.
6. Give the dog cues for start and stop, and business versus play.
a. I never just turn out my dogs from the truck when hunting. They get out,
are put at sit while I put the beeper collars on, and then are put at down
until I'm ready. Then I give them a "go pee" (I'm not too socially sensitive
in my language except around ladies), and recall to heel before leaving the
truck. They are released to hunt by whistle.
b. Field training is done from standing, and water work done from sitting.
c. Play is initiated with "OK, lets do some stuff!", and stopped with
"Enough" and a heel.

I also spit into my dogs mouths: a very senior-to-subordinate action in the
canine world. This is not to be done if you can't read a dog's willingness
to be voluntarily subordinate: you can get badly hurt. Spit serves me as a
top reward to the dogs for doing something very well, or as a reassurance.
My dogs actually seek for me to do this. Try it with your own dog, or
perhaps one that isn't, and be prepared for one of three general reactions:
(1) Dog doesn't reject the action, may be a bit puzzled at first or
immediately ask for more. In any case, the dog will readily continue to
accept the action. (2) Dog acts offended and retreats, but does not become
unfriendly. Will return if called, but clearly indicates it is unsure of its
status. (3) Dog rejects the action, hackles may rise, and you need a new
nose and lots of stitches. The first reaction is the most indicative of
existing puppy mentality. Always be cautious and prepared for the third.

Any one that believes money can't buy happiness has never bought a puppy.
Perhaps we can keep some of that for the life of our dogs.

First published in the Safe Hands Journal, International Association of
Canine Professionals, Volume 3, Issue 4, Winter 2002/3.

Dogs that bite might be broadly categorized into two groups: dogs that think
they can; and dogs that think they must. Dogs in the first group think they
can at the dog's discretion. Dogs in the second group have, in the dog's
perception, been put into the position that it feels it has no other choice.
There is a big difference in the approach to dealing with each group, and a
lot of variation within the approaches to the individual dogs.

The dog's that think they can range from dogs that are genetically
predisposed, to those that have been environmentally encouraged through a
lack of training or bad training. In both cases human failure has led the
dog down a path that leads to misery for the dog and danger to humans.  Dogs
identified with genetic disposition to bite should never be bred.  They are
unsuitable for companion work, and it may be difficult if not impossible to
gain reliable obedience response for duties requiring bite work.

The dog that bites because it think it must may be well trained and
socialized, but perceives itself to be in a situation where it knows no
other option to prevent what it perceives as an undesirable incident.

Bite prevention for both categories involves two approaches: training and
management. Reliable obedience must be gained, and behavior and perception
modification used to enhance control of the obedience. Management is
important because it must be used to prevent situations where obedience
reliability has not yet been gained by training. In a perfect canine world
management must be thought of as an interim measure and an addition to
training - not as a substitute.

Training aggressive dogs and preventing aggressive behavior from developing
is both a training and a management issue. Bite prevention approached with
training and integrated management has the best potential for success.
Success may be viewed as the lowest predictable level which is acceptable.
None of my own dogs has ever bitten because I put them through extensive
training to ensure their reliability. Yet I can not train for every
situation, and I use management to prevent those situations from arising if
possible.

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Training tables have been around in one form or another for longer than any
one can document. Some caveman, tired of bending over to get to a pup,
probably hoisted it onto a rock and gave it a pet or a bit of food, and the
training table concept was born. Well, maybe that's a stretch, but then fact
is often stranger than fiction My own experience and the advice of quite a
few others is that every trainer should consider having a table as part of
their equipment. "Well, thank you very much!", you say. "I've never used one
and gotten along very well. Why should I bother with it?."

The two most obvious reasons are comfort for the trainer, and control over
the dog. The trainer is able to reach any part of dog from a standing
position, and more quickly than when the dog is at ground level since there
is no need to reach downward. The reduced fatigue from avoiding bending and
reaching, in sometimes awkward positions, is considerable by the end of
several training sessions in a day. Control over the dog is enhanced not
only by proximity to it, but through design and use of the table itself to
accommodate specific training tasks.

A key concept about the use of training tables: they are a place where the
trainer wants learning to occur. That fact should be the basis of starting
every dog's relationship with the table, and until the dog is at ease on the
table the entire effort is oriented to achieving a desire in the dog to be
up there. Sometimes there's a humorous bit of back ground involved in
getting a positive attitude instilled in the dog -- to include overcoming
previous training that stopped getting up on anything resembling the dinning
room table at meal time!

Achieving a desire to be on the table can be done in conjunction with
teaching the dog to get on or off a given surface. These two easily taught
commands can be one of the basis for building responsiveness and obedience,
while gaining a positive attitude from the dog toward learning from the
trainer at a location where success is taking place. The training table
should also be used as a place where grooming occurs, good words are
imparted to the dog, and appropriate affection is frequently given.

I've never seen or read anything about preparing a dog to anticipate good
things on a training table. Quite the opposite, as more than one book and
training video I've read or watched has simply advised restraining the dog
to preclude it leaving the table. I've used all of the methods I've seen to
do that, such as overhead cables, hobbles, and tie-posts. In every case with
the devices there was a reduction in effective training time, and a
requirement to overcome the stress or distraction resulting from each
device. In some instances the device was actually an impediment to the task
at a higher level, and when the constraint was removed to continue to that
level, another period of adjustment to the absence of the restraining effect
had to be gotten through. When the dog wants to be on the table all of that
is eliminated, and the dog is better prepared to learn.

You should generally expect a dog running to get on the table voluntarily on
the third day by giving it four or five positive experiences on the table
each day. If the attitude isn't one of willingness by the third exercise of
the second day, I will increase the number of repetitions for the day and
attempt to make each one more appealing. Because some of the tasks I train
on the table involve the dog getting off with a return to the table to
complete the exercise, early work always involves a number of on-and-off
actions in each session, and a lot of handling while on the table. In short,
I want the dog to have already experienced as a fun issue before formal
training starts, that handling I'm going to put the dog through while
training. If I'm going to teach the trained retrieve I do a lot of ear and
mouth handling, and if I'm going to teach woah I walk the dog up and down
the table on a lead. This allows me to get a good read on the existing level
of cooperation I have from the dog, and to appropriately adjust my approach
to training each as an individual. The goal is to cause the dog's attitude
toward what it and I do on the table to be positive, and that pleasing me on
the table is rewarding.

As easy as it may seem, getting some dogs on the table can present an
initial problem of significant resistance by the dog. It is important to
establish from the start that the table is a place where you are in total
command. Even tractable dogs of good disposition may resist and must be
dealt with firmly, and must not be allowed to be successful in avoiding
being put on the table. This is easily accomplished by the use of a lead in
conjunction with a ramp for the first few days of putting the dog on and off
the table. This ensures that the dog's ability to refuse your command to get
on, or for it to get off with out permission, is under your control.
Approach getting the dog to mount the table, to remain there, and to
dismount only on command just as you would the teaching of any other task,
but with the added goal of making the table a place the dog wants to be.

Dogs that are anxious or even fearful of the situation in which training is
being conducted are not going to give the trainer their best effort: so why
would a trainer put a dog into a place where the dog immediately becomes a
lesser student? I have seen training videos, and had discussions with a few
trainers where the training table has been referred to as a less than
positive place in the dog's view. Those trainers chose to approach this by
just, "working through it". It seems to make more sense, that the dog should
see the training table as a positive place for it to be before using the
table for any training that may be stressful.

The trainer's relationship to the table height is of importance from two
standpoints. The first is trainer safety, and the second is the ability to
quickly and easily reach the dog as required for the training involved.
Trainer safety is always to be considered in the relationship of table
height and the dog being trained. Safety in design comes primarily from
ensuring the dog's opportunity to access the trainer's face or chest area is
appropriate to the dog and training being conducted. A lower table will
reduce the level of the dogs muzzle to those areas. Trainers dealing with
dogs of significant variance in height might elect to have two or three
tables of different heights but of the same width, about five feet long,
which could be placed end to end to gain desired length. This allows the
trainer to use the appropriate height when next to the dog, and the other
tables for extension of the working surface.

Trainers on an eye-to-eye level with dog that is even potentially aggressive are more at risk of injury in the face and throat area, and if they elect to train from that position should take appropriate precautions. In some instances, the reduction of the relative height from trainer to a timid dog will be a positive because of the less dominate or threatening positioning of the trainer. This should be looked for as even a very subtle, positive change in the dogs body language, reduction of nervousness, or attention to the trainers efforts.

The location and training objectives dictate the selection of materials for
durability and portability. Tables to be permanently outside should be made
of treated wood, or a combination of galvanized pipe for the frame and
treated wood for the top. Tables to be used inside do not need treated
lumber, and will benefit by being lighter and easier to move. The need for a
portable table is a challenge to satisfy with a truly portable design.
Commercially available at a reasonable cost is a table with metal frame,
folding legs, and a laminated top sold at business supply stores. The slick
surface of the commercial design is unsatisfactory for training and should
be covered with rubber matting before use. I strongly recommend the use of
deck screws instead of nails if you make one from wood. My current tables
are now over ten years old, and except for an occasional tightening of
screws remain sturdy.

At some point you'll find the dog running to the table and waiting when you
arrive for training. Hopefully you'll also find a wagging tail and a look in
the eyes that asks "What's in store for today?" Those enthusiastic leaps to
the table put a lot of lateral stress on the frame which is another reason
to use screws in construction. For dogs of up to about 70 pounds, tables
constructed of 2 x 4 frames and 1x 4's for the top (lighter than plywood),
with a width of twenty five inches provide adequate surface area for
training. A total length of 10 feet gives enough distance for most work with
medium breeds, but 15 feet or more is desirable.

The tasks to be trained will also influence the height, as well as the width
of the table's design. Ideally, with the dog standing along the near edge of
the table the trainer should be able to reach over the dog and touch its
outside flank However, the table must also be wide enough for the dog to
easily turn 180 degrees during the execution of training for fetch, line,
and other tasks. Lowering the height will give the trainer greater reach
over the dog while maintaining width necessary for 180 degree turning.

If you've used the approach of getting the dog to want to be on the training
table, you should not need any of the overhead control devices designed to
ensure the dog remains there. In the case of aggressive dogs, such design
additions may offer the trainer additional security, but are not enough to
ensure safety. The trainer's best defense against being attacked is
correctly reading the dog and listening to his own gut feeling.

There are two commonly used table restraints for those that may choose to
use them. One is a post extending above the table, with an arm extending
half across the width. The arm should allow about 5 inches clearance over
the top of the dog's head when it is standing erect. The second, suspended
by a post at each end, is an overhead cable running the center length of the
table. This cable is used with a trolley arrangement linked to the dog's
collar to keep it from dismounting the table when sent down the table's
length. I have used both, and found them to work when properly employed in
conjunction with the flat collar.

If you do use the restraints, the proper length of line from the fixed point
(arm or trolley) to the dog's collar must be enough that the dog, if
dismounted, is able to prevent itself from choking by placing its front paws
back on the table. One or at the most two dismounts and the dog usually
realizes that the consequences of doing so are an immediate correction
(supplied by the short line from collar to the restrain point), and the
action is not generally repeated. The collar must be a flat, buckle collar,
adjusted to prevent the dog slipping out of it during these instances. Give
no other correction than what the dog has caused itself to experience, and
if required assist the dog back onto the table without unbuckling the
collar. If you decide to use the restraints discussed above with small
breeds and toy breeds, ensure the combined width of the table and length of
restraint are such that the restraint prevents them from being able to jump
off.

Exercises which I commonly start on the table are: woah or stand, sit, down,
the retrieve, take a line forward, take a line 180 degrees by turning left
or right, take a line 90 degrees left or right, down for examination, and of
course on, and off first of all. By correctly positioning the dog in
relation to table configuration, the table contributes to the dogs learning
by eliminating some of its options. For example: in teaching woah the action
is performed at the end of the table where the next step would be into empty
space. In teaching sit and down, the end of the table and restricted width
reduce the dog's sense of space in which it can move about. By standing at
the end of the table for the retrieve, instead of stepping forward the dog
must extend its head and neck when learning to reach for the object. In
taking a line forward, the table provides a clear path to the object to be
retrieved. For the 180 degree line, by placing the dog on the appropriate
edge it must turn in the desired direction and to the correct degree. For 90
degree lines the dog is placed at sit at one end facing across the table's
width. It then has no choice but to move directly on a 90 degree line upon
command. Down for examination has the dog in a subordinate position, but the
trainer is able to remain in a standing position (and is thus more movable)
without towering over the dog. This also prepares the dog for the
veterinarian's examination table.

Design and use of the training table are limited only by the user's
imagination. Whatever you build for your first table, you will certainly
find changes to improve upon it to meet your own training needs. Consider
safety, portability, and the tasks to be trained to get the best design for
your needs. Try it -- you'll like it.

First printed in the IACP  Safe Hands Journal, Vol.4, Issue 2, Summer 2003

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So You Want A Dog
 copyright Sept 2004
By: George K. Hobson

Everyone wants the perfect dog, and between television commercials and the newspapers, it would appear that getting one is merely a matter of going to whoever has a dog to sell or give away.  After all, doesn’t the newspaper add tell you that the dog is great with children, and will be free only to a good home? 

As to what the perfect dog will be, we have only to look to the Disney Studios to know that it will be faithful, ready to risk its life for us, perfectly mannered, and will be able to find its way home over several hundred miles if accidentally left at a roadside stop.  Additionally, the perfect dog will never pee in the house, never snatch the ice cream from a toddler, never jump on you in your new clothes, and never, never chew on your things.  Unfortunately for the entire world, such a dog does not exist, though with training we can come very close to developing one.

Designer dogs seem to be becoming more and more available, with price tags in the hundreds if not thousands of dollars.  Such names as Labradoodles (a relatively new designer breed) and the long standing Cockapoo are two of the more recognizable.  Often outlandish claims are made for these mixed breeds: thirty years ago when I rescued a Cockapoo I was assured the American Kennel Club would soon accept them for registration: if that wonderful little dog was still alive, we would both be waiting for that recognition.  In fact, mixed breeds have little to no possibility of ever being acknowledged and registered as a pure breed.  While dogs of such papers may be advertised as being registered, that registry has absolutely no value.  Mixed breed registries must not be considered as equal to those of organizations like the American Kennel Club, The North American Hunting Dog Association, United Kennel Club, breed specialty registries, or others devoted to registry of breed lineage and performance.

In recognition of the need many owners feel to have a registered dog, several new organizations have recently begun to act as registry centers for mixed breeds.  They offer a certificate of registration for a fee, and I have yet to understand the benefit to anyone but the organization that gets paid for a bit of paper: paper that has absolutely no value but a, “feel-good” for the owner, and money for the registering business. 

The combination of Disney-dog expectations, designer-dog sales pitches, and the availability of registering any dog, has encouraged the acquisition of a dog with little understanding by the new owner of what they will actually be taking on.  Many dogs are acquired for all the wrong reasons.  Sometimes they are gotten as an impulse gift, or because it fits with an expected life style of owning a home.  I personally tracked a lovely little Brittany through two homes, bought her when she was dumped by the second owner, and after training placed her in her final home.  The placement was made after careful vetting of the new owners to ensure they were right for the dog, and the dog was right for them. 

All too often little consideration is given to the work and commitment involved in developing that nearly Disney-dog, and the results are usually tragic for both the dog and the humans involved.  The dogs may wind up tied out to a tree, dumped along a roadside, or if they are lucky turned in at a shelter.  Too often the dogs taken to shelters are already damaged goods because of neglect and are not adoptable.  Just as tragic is the owner that has a child bitten or a neighbor attacked because of their neglect, and failure to train the cute puppy which all too quickly grew into an ill-mannered and potentially dangerous adult.

Before purchasing or adopting a dog every individual, and even better that all the members of a family, will consider why they want a dog of any kind.  Understanding the motivation for getting a dog will greatly improve the chances of getting the right dog for a given owner, and the opportunity to subsequently train as nearly a perfect dog as possible.

Why do I want a dog?  That is the most basic question and one that if not thoughtfully answered makes any choice a gamble.  That question alone should clue potential owners not to impulse buy under any circumstances.  The motives for purchasing a dog are often complex, not obvious, and may be difficult to accurately answer.  Are you trying to recreate the puppy of your childhood?  Do you want to rescue, but not necessarily care for, a shelter dog?  Are you lonely and want companionship?  Is it just the looks of a certain purebred that attracts you?  Is it the image of a dog such as seen in Disney’s 101 Dalmatians?  Understanding your true motivation for getting a dog is the first step in making a good choice.  That motivation, when understood, will better help you choose the right dog, or it may in fact lead you to conclude that a dog really isn’t what you want. 

One of the worst reasons to get a dog is because every child should have one.  Children in general, especially those under the age of five, should never be left alone with a dog.  Children will be children, and dogs will be dogs.  Even an unintentional act by a child that hurts or makes the dog feel threatened, and in particular with an untrained dog, creates a high probability of a bite.  Adults must be willing to accept the need to both train for and manage the interaction between children and dogs.  In general it is best to wait until children are old enough to understand how to behave with the family dog before acquiring one.  The arrival of a new baby, or the presence of children under the age of five, is often the reason that dogs are gotten rid of. 

What kind of dog should I get --- does it really matter what breed?  If we believe in the Disney-dog and designer-dog concept, we would conclude that a dog is a dog and it matters little.  The truth is far from that idea, and failure to understand the characteristics of various purebreds, and appreciate the potential of mixed breeds, may lead to entirely inappropriate choices.  Remember, this is an animal that you will have to live with for years.  It must live where you do, and while giant breeds are less appropriate for small apartments than standard or miniature breeds, it may be even more difficult to confine working line hunting dogs to a strictly urban life.  All dogs are not alike, and the best way to get the one for you is to learn their differences before purchase.  If you only seek information from breed enthusiasts you are most likely to get only glowing comments.  Be diligent, and research several sources.

Within every litter there is a wide range of personalities.  Some dogs will be very independent and harder to train.  Some will be a bit timid or even fearful, and will be unsuitable for families with children.  The average owner is best suited to the dog in the middle of the personality range.  The dog that displays interest in new items, that is friendly with humans, displays no fear actions, and is interested in interaction with its littermates, should be the first considered for a family dog.

Where should I get a dog?   It may be easier to answer that issue by understanding where not to get a dog, and then considering points about selection once the where is answered.  While there’s more than one way to get a healthy and well-socialized dog, the first place to avoid is a mass breeder.  Commonly referred to as puppy mills these operations produce large numbers of litters, and often have many breeds.  Their most common outlets are pet stores, and not infrequently may be found at parking lots disposing of puppies that have gotten too old for the commercial market.  If you go to a breeder and they are anxious or willing to just sell you a dog you should be suspicious.  Reputable breeders carefully vet potential buyers, and the very best always include a mandatory return of the dog if the original buyer gives it up for any reason.  Health guarantees are also always included in a written contract.  Good breeders will match the temperament and type of dog to the potential owner, and as they are truthfully more concerned about their dogs welfare than a sale they will make every effort to prevent a mismatch. 

Shelters are an excellent place to get sound and vet checked dogs.  Purebreds as well as mixed breeds are in shelters, and the fact is that an older dog from a shelter may well be the best option for a pet.  Its size, general temperament, and adult appearance are more firmly established for consideration. 

Breed rescue organizations are another source for those searching for a dog of a specific breed.  They can be located via an Internet search, and it is not infrequently that volunteers match a dog to potential owners in other states.  Volunteers who relay the dog to get it to new owners often minimize the transportation costs.

Picking the right dog demands research and self-evaluation.  The romantic concept of a human and a dog being matched in heaven has little to do with reality.  Having the perfect dog only comes about with training, selection of the right breed, and getting the individual dog of that breed which matches the owner’s life style.  Not every Labrador is a couch potato in the house, and Border Collies are too high energy for owners who have little time to spend with them.  Some careful preliminary work, and consideration of the issues presented here will go a long way towards getting the correct breed, and individual dog within that breed, which match your needs and lifestyle: the dog you must train into the, "perfect dog".

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RULES of LEADERSHIP
George K. Hobson
copyright Dec 2004

Canine relationships are of only two types: the leader and the follower. In order to prevent having to challenge the dog for leadership at a future date, you must be your dog’s leader from the moment you acquire it. If you don’t take charge the dog will, from its perspective, and in no uncertain terms. This will often occur through behaviors that are inappropriate in human society. In the worst case the dog that takes charge may instinctively attempt to enforce its position the way it would in the canine world: by the use of its teeth. 

Rule 1. Leaders are confident.
Dogs instinctively read body language and energy levels better than human vocal communication. If the leader is filled with tension, uncertainty, or fear, the dog knows this instantly. It doesn't matter if we need to lead one dog or a pack, we must project a confident bearing and tone of voice to those we wish to voluntarily follow us. Walk confidently, chin up, and smile. Whether your dog is dominant, shy, or submissive, failure to be a calm and confident leader will make the dog’s problems worse, and may cause those undesirable traits to become a way the dog comes to dominate you. Leaders must be possessed of inner calm and conviction, and when they achieve that state it can be transferred to the dog. Learning and self control by the dog will best occur when it has achieved a calm state.

Rule 2. No teeth on human skin. 
Puppies have needle sharp teeth and wounds are easily acquired. So we start at day one and teach the dog that it will be unpleasant for him to use its teeth on any part of the human anatomy. Our part in this consists of not doing things that encourage the dog to bite, and immediate action at the appropriate level to render a bite situation memorably unpleasant, the first time, when it does happen. Finger flick to the nose, or cuff under the chin. For older dogs, these same two tactics will work -- unless the dog has been allowed to develop into one that has achieved its goals of dominance over humans by aggressive actions. In these cases the guidance of a professional trainer must be sought.

Rule 3. The leader controls space. 
a. A canine leader does not share its space, and subordinates always yield their space to the leader. Your bed and furniture are people-space, and allowing your dog to share them sends mixed signals to the dog that is always seeking to raise it's social level. If you are determined to have this happen it must be under control that will only come when the dog clearly demonstrates that it has accepted a subordinate role to all humans. When the dog has become an adult at about age three, its role should be clearly enough defined to know if you are able to indulge your need to have the dog in your bed. Just because your dog may move from the sofa for you, does not mean it will move for your friends or even other family members. Remember that its way of saying no to your family and friends may well be with its teeth.

b. Dogs tend to lie in places that are frequented by humans, such as in hallways, in front of the sink or in doorways. They must learn to move out of the way as you approach, and to teach this you will shuffle through the dog with your chin up and a confident bearing. If you are tentative it encourages the dog to challenge you for the space, and in dominant dogs that challenge is most often aggressive actions.

Rule 3. Nothing in life is free (NILIF). 
Leaders are respected, and in canine terms that means you must be valued for what you provide in its life. If it is able to control you, and make no mistake it will try in many subtle ways to do so, you will become its follower without even realizing it. Actions such as pulling on the leash, uncontrollable barking, refusing to give up a toy, protecting its food, nipping at your shoes while walking, and growling to warn you away will become real problems and must not be permitted.  Canine subordination (not punishment) comes first in your relationship so that you have a dog you can love, and which will show you respectful attention and affection in return. This means that the dog has to consistently earn everything it gets from you for its entire life. If you allow the dog to demand and receive petting when it lays its head on your knee one time, and then not the next, your actions are confusing and encourage other attempts to test and dominate you that may not be so benign. Petting is done only on top of the head, top of the back or across the back to the opposite side. Petting under the chin is a subordinate gesture. Make no mistake about the head on the knee, or leaning against you with one paw on your foot. Those are not actions of affection: they are actions of dominance by the dog. You should not permit them if you are always in control.

Rule 4.  Every thing belongs to humans.
In the canine world any object that is not in the immediate possession of a higher ranking individual is open to acquisition by any dog that can get and keep it. To gain and keep your place as leader that means that everything must belong to you, and that you must imbue in the dog that you do not have to be in immediate possession for that to hold true. 

a. Toys.  The dog is never to have more than one at time. All toys are to be given at the start of the day from your hand, and at the end of the day are to be taken away while the dog sees you doing so. Try and determine if there is a favorite toy, and reserve it for times when you are directly interacting with the dog. Remove and replace the favorite toy when you stop the interaction.

b. Human furniture is for human use only. Employ the yes environment (where you use every negative situation to teach a positive outcome) to teach a command of "off" instead of punishing the dog for being on the furniture.

c. Food and treats are allowed only after they are earned, and never in response to a request initiated by the dog. At feeding time require the dog to be calm, and remain at sit before releasing it to eat. Treats are given sparingly, in very small bits, and only after calm, proper response to a command: sit is a good command to start with for this purpose. There is no begging for food allowed, and the dog is not permitted in your eating area. Food and treats are to be moistened with your saliva, and with dogs that have already assumed a position of dominance this may lead to rejection of the proffered item. If the dog rejects a regular meal simply walk away and take the item with you. Try again in about fifteen minutes, and if the item is again rejected wait until the next scheduled meal. Whether it is a scheduled meal or a treat, the dog gets no food item until it accepts the item with your saliva on it. Don’t worry if this takes two or three days since the canine hunger cycle is thirty-six hours. Your dog is not going to starve itself, and all food is controlled.
 
d. Every thing belonging to humans. This includes physical locations, and it is your responsibility to make the dog yield them to you. Shuffle through the dog if is in your path and does not move at your approach.

e. Marking is a dog’s way to control territory, and both male and female dogs will do this. It should not be permitted as it may lead to the same action in your home, and territorial guarding.  The act of marking is different from the elimination due to need, and you must learn to recognize your dog’s body language to stop marking incidents before they happen. You should have your dog eliminate at “the place” in your own yard before starting on walks.

f. Everything belongs to humans to include your dog, and it must come to accept that fact.  Communicating your leadership in dog terms will be most effective by touch in specific ways and places.  With dominant dogs this must be done slowly and with good judgment, but with confidence and a clear goal of gaining the dog’s acceptance.  When the dog is in a calm state, take the opportunity to put your hand over its muzzle, on top of its head, pat it on the side by reaching over its back in a non-challenging manner.  Never have the dog in your lap, nor allow it to place its paws on you.  With submissive dogs the tenor of these actions must be especially gentle, but don’t make them a babying action, and be careful not to do them when it will reinforce the shy or fearful state.  With dogs that show aggression, and especially if a bite has occurred, it is a wise course to seek professional advice.

Rule 5. Every dog must have a safe place.
This is where it goes when it needs peace and quite. The dog must still be trained to yield this location as it is only on loan from you. The safe place can be its “own” rug, or best of all its own crate.

Rule 6. Never chase the dog.
Leaders are in front, and a chase will reinforce your role as a follower. If the dog is not reliable to your recall, it must always have a line attached to the collar. The length of the line depends on how fast you are because you must be able to get to it and step on it to stop the dog. Walk down the line, and at about the three foot length use it like a leash to regain control. Do not ever place your hands directly on the collar to control the dog.

Rule 7. You must be in charge of every situation. 
Leaders are able to protect their followers, and are in control of every situation. When you are able to do this to the dog’s satisfaction it will not feel the need to attempt to do so on its own. In a time of stress a tight leash is an indicator to the dog that you are not in control, and an indicator to you that the dog has not given you its confidence. Obedience training is part of the solution to controlling the dog, and building the relationship of your being in charge from the dog’s viewpoint. Commands are only given once after the dog has demonstrated its understanding of the task. As a general guideline, never give a command you are not prepared to enforce within four seconds.

Rule 8. Leaders make their expectations a black-or-white situation for the dog. Dogs function best in a situation where the world has no shades of gray concerning their actions in human society. This boils down in its simplest form to human consistency in communication to the dog. Consistency means giving a command only once, and enforcement of the appropriate level of performance of the command -- every time. Allowing the dog to pull on the leash and precede you to the car from the front door, and then becoming frustrated when the dog fails to heel properly at the subsequent training session, is an all too common example of owner inconsistency.

Rule 9. There are no favorites. In households of multiple dogs the eight rules still apply, but the dynamics change dramatically with every additional dog. One of the most common mistakes is allowing one of the dogs to become the assistant leader.  This automatically sets up potential conflict as the subordinate dogs should be expected to seek to raise their social standing to number two in the order.  It may not happen for years, but it will surely happen as age overtakes the vitality of the second in command.  When the human leadership is strong and sufficient to maintain order and discipline, is it not necessary to have the assistance of a canine pack member in doing so. 

Maintaining the good order and discipline in a multi-dog home consists of many single issues, and the often complex interrelations of those that are seemingly unrelated. Breed type, mix of sexes, mix of breeds, adequate space for each dog to have a place of its own, obedience training, and human fallibility are but a few of the issues that influence the leader's decisions and actions on every occasion. 

Implementation of the rules will do much to gain for you the voluntary acceptance of your leadership, but just the application is not an automatic guarantee of success. However, failing to implement them will certainly jeopardize your chance to become your dog’s chosen leader. Start with them immediately the puppy or older dog is acquired, and you will have a solid foundation for a happy and cooperative companion. You can not be selective about implementing them, and it is important that everyone in the family to do them all, and be consistent in their application..

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